Favorite Meals of 2021 (Part 4)
Favorite Meals from some friends of Buffalo Eats (original published in December 2021)
Since 2012 we’ve had an annual tradition on Buffalo Eats. We reach out to a variety of people who have some connection to the Buffalo community about their favorite meals. We give our participants very broad guidelines. They can write as much or as little as they’d like and it can be about any meal they had. Feel free to look at this list of every person who’s contributed to this blog series.
This year, we will run five blog posts that will feature a bunch of familiar faces, some new ones and the majority of the fine folks who keep the lights on with Buffalo Eats. Thanks for reading.
Drew Brown (Marketing Manager at Visit Buffalo Niagara): Like everyone else, takeout dining dominated my household’s eating habits in early 2021. So when the Lenten season rolled around in late February and March, my annual fish fry tour consisted of ordering takeout beer-battered fillets from the usual haunts while trying some new spots along the way. I was skeptical. I knew that asking for the crispy batter to stay intact during the drive home was a tall order. But I love fish fry. There’s a bit of nostalgia in the whole tradition for me. So I gave it a shot.
Enter Frank Gourmet Hot Dogs. For the sheer sorcery that’s involved in however they get that piece of fish (pictured above) to stay THAT crispy in a to-go container… in a bag for my 15-drive home to the West Side, Frank earns my favorite meal of 2021.
Not to mention, it was delicious. You know that heavy feeling you get in your gut after you house a fish fry and all the typical accoutrements? None of that with the Frank fry. The fish, the slaw, the potato salad; it was all flavorful, yet light. And the French fries *chef’s kiss* - best in Buffalo.
Drew's Previous Favorite Meals: 2017, 2018
Reid Ferguson (Buffalo Bills Longsnapper, Co-Host of After the Snap): As a first timer on this list, I feel like I have to start it off with a bang so Donnie brings me back next year. My wife and I love to venture out and try new places, but given this is my beginner post, I wanted to list off 4-5 of our favorite spots that we’ve been to in my 6 years in Buffalo. Here goes nothing!
Starting with #5 The Blackthorn
When I first signed for the Bills in 2016, I lived with a family friend in West Seneca not too far from Blackthorn. We would frequent quite a few times per month, mostly for the fish fry. Although they do have great atmosphere and menu otherwise, the fish fry is to die for. Best I’ve had in Buffalo.
#4 Mulberry
What kind of list would this be without some Italian? This is another place I’ve been going to for years and it never disappoints. The meatballs, lasagna, you name it. You cannot get anything bad here. It’s literally all good. I would eat there more, but I have to fit in my jersey on Sunday’s…haha
Talk about a steak. Good grief. The best steak spot in WNY that I’ve been to. Any cut, any time, can’t go wrong. Last time I went I got the ribeye and it was better than the first time I got it. Always getting better, that’s what I like about my favorite spots. Beautiful view too if you can get there before sunset!
This is one of my two “Ol’ faithfuls.” Go for the pot roast, stay for the delicious beer. Solid pizza as well. Always like sitting at the 2nd level bar.
#1 Toutant
This spot hits close to home given I spent my college years in Baton Rouge, LA. Owner and chef James Roberts is simply great. Everything on the menu is great. From the appetizer biscuits to the jumbalaya to the beignets. Just one phenomenal dish after another. I think when my wife and I first went we ordered almost one of everything. This is a can’t miss spot in Buffalo.
Steve Gedra (Chef/Owner of The Black Sheep): Hello everyone! I’m excited and grateful to have a platform on Ole Buffalo Eats once again this year. I’m glad I have a moment to share some of the good times I’ve had this year.
Obviously, it hasn’t been the best year for dining out, so I’m just going to preface this whole thing by stating how proud I am of our community of restaurants and diners for the incredible resilience and support everyone has demonstrated through this whole ordeal. It is truly inspiring, and every time I feel like hanging up my Birkenstocks, I think about all of the people that make our city so great. I am talking about YOU! So, thank you Buffalo, for everything you’ve done and continue to do. We love you more than you know!
In the whole vein of gratitude, as I reflect on this year, I am truly grateful for any meal that I’ve gotten to share with friends and family, which was A LOT more in 2021 than it was in 2020, so, progress I suppose.
In July, we were fortunate enough to rent out a really great house in Maine with my whole family. One of my friends, whom I met while working in Vail in 2005, is based out of Portland with another friend of mine who is a WNY native and owns a catering company called Bread and Butter catering. It was my parents’ 50th anniversary, so me and my sisters and Ellen hired my dudes to come up to Boothbay and throw a massive shindig. Holy hell, they blew us away. The products they use are pretty much all within a 50 mile radius of Portland, and anyone who has been to Maine is fully aware of the beautiful food that is available there. Oysters on the half shell, tuna sashimi, caviar, local Maine cheeses, and monster Tomahawk ribeyes were all on the menu. Something about eating your pals’ food with your family in Maine, right next to the ocean…. I don’t think I need to say how special this was. If you’re in Southern Maine and you need a bunch of great food, call Josh at Bread and Butter in Portland and put your helmet on. Tell him Penguino sent you and who knows? You may get hooked up or you may get poisoned. (Joking, kitchen humor ☺) I’ll also add that we had either lobster rolls or belly clams almost every day we were there. Not a bad gig.
Ellen and I are terrible at celebrating our wedding anniversary, but this year we figured we should probably celebrate not killing each other while operating a restaurant during a pandemic. Not many better places to go than Kuni’s. They just don’t miss. Every bite was delicious but the highlights were definitely the monkfish liver and the Hijiki. It’s unreal how consistently great Kuni and his crew has been over the years. Truly an inspiration and a great example of how to be.
In October, we took our some of our crew out to The Little Club for a little R&R after a stressful summer. We legit ate every single thing on the menu, but the highlights were definitely the fennel with chile oil, the sweet potatoes, the chicory salad, and, on another visit with friends, the French Onion soup. Many of you know that my good friend Dan Borelli sadly passed away last year after being the Chef at Little Club for a couple of years, so it was very emotional for me to go there for the first time (and second time). Seeing the mural on the building that was beautifully done by local artist Max Collins and horking a lung dart with Dan was cathartic in a way, but very sad nonetheless. On the bright side of things, Gus, the current Chef, who worked very closely with Dan, has taken carried the torch seemingly effortlessly, and is charting his own path. It’s great to see that Dan’s ethos has carried on in the next generation, and we are grateful to the Lombardo family for honoring my friend in such a thoughtful way.
Thanks for listening to my BS and thank you to Buffalo Eats for lending all of us a voice once again! I hope to see you all soon at Black Sheep! Please continue to support local small businesses, we are all still fighting hard to keep our dreams floating, and it means so much to all of us to share them with you in such a difficult time.
Steve's Previous Favorite Meals: 2012, 2013, 2016, 2017, 2019
Nate Geary (Radio Host/Producer at WGR 550): Last year, my submission was a home-cooked meal by my uber-talented girlfriend better known as “Bflo Foodie” but this year I wanted to highlight a dish at one of my very favorite WNY staples: Swan Street Diner.
I know we’re located all the way up in the Northeast, but Swan Street Diner is cooking up an UNREAL southern classic: biscuits and gravy.
If you’re a frequenter of Swan Street and haven’t wrangled in one of these bad boys yet, get on it. Seriously tasty sausage gravy that requires at least an hour nap immediately afterward. A couple of perfectly fried, sunny-side up eggs with two full-sized southern-style biscuits.
I’m a full-on sicko and have to get something both savory AND sweet when I go to swan street, so I usually pair these beauties with a pancake or two to even out the pallet, but I assure you, these will keep you warm and full all by themselves.
If you’re looking for the best biscuits and gravy north of the Mason-Dixon, look no further than the train car diner in Larkinville.
Nate's Previous Favorite Meals: 2019
Mike Khoury (Co-owner of Feature Eatery): I am far from perfect but I'm a generally healthy guy. Or I try to be, at least. Heck, I even have a restaurant devoted to eating the way that I aspire to eat.
But then 2020 happened and stress-eating became a regular thing. In the early months, I'd pull into any drive-thru establishment that'd have me. A long drive, a podcast, and some crappy food just to numb the feels as you kids say. Crappy chains that I hadn't visited in YEARS (or ever, in some cases) became regular haunts. To put a positive spin on it I learned quite a bit (ie, "Oh that's what a chalupa is??") and discovered the king of the chain chicken sandwiches, the Popeye's spicy chicken sandwich! (PS - I'm glad you like Wendy's or wherever but just stop.. this is a discussion for grown ups).In 2021 I pivoted to more local fast-casual's and that made me feel slightly better about myself. I'd like to highlight a few of them (plus a beef shop) that became regular stops on my long drives around the area.
TSG BBQ in Elma.
After driving by multiple times I finally stopped in here in January right before the Bills' playoff opener against the Colts. Since then I've been a regular and have eaten through most of the menu. My recommendations: it's all good! The standards like brisket and ribs are quite good, their sides are always delicious, but their smoked roast beef sandwich and smoked cheeseburger really blew me away. I couldn't believe how juicy they were! Buffalo seems to finally be catching up to the country in having some decent BBQ in the area between TSG, Southern Junction, and Yankee BBQ in Hamburg.
After getting their name wrong the first umpteen times I tried to track their location via Facebook I finally got it down! They're NOT the more natural sounding Buffalo Burger Bros, as in Burger Bros who hail from Buffalo. They ARE the Buffalo Bros Burgers. As in, Buffalo Bros who are serving you Burgers. Whether they are literal or figurative Bros remains a mystery to this writer at the time of writing. Whatever they call themselves, their burgers are fantastic! Just a simple, juicy smash burger with almost no options, which I love! This is hands down one of the best burgers in Buffalo (I can talk about this subject for an hour so by all means reach out if you'd like to do so).
Butter Meat Co. (Not a fast-casual)
After hearing so many good things about this cute shop in Perry, NY, and knowing that they're doing the important work of trying to get Americans to eat dairy beef, I had to try it! Pictured is a day where Mr Buffalo Eats and I made some of their delicious ribeyes and they didn't disappoint! To keep it short, dairy beef cows are typically much older than your regular beef cows and eating them helps accomplish a few things, namely a more sustainable food system while also allowing a lot of flavor to develop in the animal that we don't otherwise get. This topic deserves far more attention than I can give it in a stupid blurb like this so either do some reading or just trust me and go buy their delicious beef!
Mike's Previous Favorite Meals: 2012, 2013, 2016
Regina Schrambling (NYC Based Food Writer): Since March 13, 2020, my highest praise for food in restaurants has been: “This is really good, and not just because I didn’t have to cook it.” After all these months in this ceaseless coma, this half-life with everything besides food so constricted, I appreciate breaks from my own kitchen so much more.
In one of the last months of the Before Time, my consort and I ate out 15 times. (I remember because friends were planning a trip over from London and were looking for my latest recommendations. How’d that work out?) These days we are far more discriminating in where we spend food $, so I think my best meals of 2021 may have been more “best” than the last time I typed here. But some individual dishes in particular merit my “not just because” praise:
Alex Stupak’s double celery appetizer at his latest Empellon Taqueria in NYC: cubes of just-cooked celeriac coated in peanut-based salsa macha and topped with thinly sliced celery. And I don’t even like celery — the combination is a knockout, especially if you’re only used to celery root raw or roasted.
The patty melt club at Quality Eats on NYC’s Upper East Side. It’s a genius crossover of two classic sandwiches made even livelier by the coleslaw it’s served with (barely dressed, & with little jolts of sliced fresh jalapeños).
The (believe it or not) vegan queso at Yellow Rose in the East Village, which is actually even better than the queso made from actual leche that’s sometimes served as a special.
The fried green tomato BLT at Hot Suppa in Portland, Me., pushed over the top by a schmear of pimento cheese, and the soft-shell crab BLT at the Oyster House in Philadelphia, only there the T was pickled. (I see a theme here: Sandwiches out always outdo sandwiches you are forced to make at home.)
The fennel upside-down cake, the killer closer of an all-veg dinner at Vedge, also in Philadelphia. Fennel turns out to be almost pear-like in a dessert.
The quintessential quiche at Parc, again in Philadelphia. (Yes. Quiche. I’d forgotten how great they can be when made right as in Lorraine.)
In thinking over the last 12 months, though, what struck me was how few actual meals were totally memorable. The only standouts are from that wildly heady period after vaccinations became widely available, when we were walking around boasting we were FVPs (Fully Vaccinated People), and before the anti-vax propaganda whipped up the hysteria.
I remember meeting food-obsessed friends at Olmsted in Brooklyn and sharing nearly every dish on the whole menu indoors and having the chef stop by our table to accept compliments on the likes of cherry-glazed duck liver mousse eclairs, and kale crab Rangoon, and duck pastrami.
I remember our dinner at River Twice in Philadelphia, John Hiatt on the sound system and charred cobia and the best quail I have ever eaten on the plate, with wines to match every small-plate course.
I remember our first dinner indoors at RedFarm on the Upper West Side, one of our old favorites we had given up on after an early meal on the sidewalk where we could only talk about the restaurateur we once met in Tallinn, Estonia, who said: "Restaurants sell air.” The dim sum outdoors was as stellar as always (crab-duck dumplings in Thai curry sauce; barbecue duck lettuce wrap; soup dumplings etc.), but it was so much better shared in a buzzy dining room where the host stopped by to catch up on enormous changes since we’d last crossed paths.
I remember our lunch at Eventide in Portland, Me., where we lucked into a table at lunchtime and found the insane hype was actually justified: Thai green curry with lobster; a quintessential crab roll; baked oysters; smoked(!) lobster to eat on crackers with pickled vegetables and creme fraiche.
And I really remember our dinner at Isa Bistro in Portland, which was recommended by our friend the food editor, where we were lucky enough to land on Mexican Monday. The lobster tostada was exceptional, but the quesadilla with squash blossoms showed you just how brilliant a Mexican chef can be in showcasing something simple: the squash blossoms in the filling had both flavor and texture, and the two salsas — one chunky, one green and smooth — added so many levels of flavor to what is so often a throwaway dish.
But to be honest, some of the best meals of the last year were always at a bar a 15-minute walk north from our kitchen, where we eat at picnic tables in the noisy street at happy hour with Aperol spritzes and on-tap Negronis and indulge in the one thing I could never master at home. I’ve learned to make a seriously great cheeseburger (hint: I start with patties from Dicksons Farmstand in the Chelsea Market), but french fries defeated me. The ones Nobody Told Me serves alongside its awesome burgers are not the best in the half lockdowned world (the crab fries at Bar Hygge in Philadelphia were a new level of American poutine), but they are always damn good.
Next year in Buffalo, we hope…
Regina's Previous Favorite Meals: 2017, 2018, 2019
Mike Dudek (Creator of @diningwithdudek): What’s funny about my favorite meal of 2021 is that it actually begins back in 2019. I was on my way back from Seattle on a flight from Chicago to Buffalo. It was obviously a long trip and the last hour and a half flight really couldn’t go by quick enough. The plane was boarding its final few passengers and I had the seat next to me open (or at least it was for the moment).
A mother and her two sons came walking down the aisle, the oldest, I’d say was around 8 and the youngest had to be maybe 3. The mom got the 8-year-old situated next to me and he pretty much immediately started talking to me about anything and everything. I learned that he, his brother, and his mom were returning from a trip visiting family overseas. He told me all about the trip from meeting his family members, the culture, things they did, how long they had been traveling for, and on and on. His mother, who was sitting a few rows back, told him to stop bothering me and to just look at a flight-provided magazine, but I said he was fine and not bothering me at all, therefore, giving him the permission to keep talking to me. After the deep dive into his trip, he transitioned into something he was even MORE passionate about, his family’s business. He told me all about how his dad opened this restaurant and how the food was just so delicious. I (obviously looking for another great spot) asked him what the name was and he replied Alibaba Kebab. He went on and on about the business in detail and before I knew it, he had worn himself out talking and fell asleep. We landed, went our separate ways and both returned to our everyday lives.
Fast forward roughly 2 years, it’s a Saturday afternoon and I am kicking around the idea of what to have for dinner. I wanted to try someplace new and didn’t want something that was in my normal wheelhouse of cuisines. Then I heard the kid’s voice in my head and knew where I would go, Alibaba Kebab.
As I walked into the building I was hit with an array of new and incredible smells. Just beyond the counter, you could see meat being cooked on large skewers that almost looked like swords carrying perfectly charred pieces of chicken and gyro. I stared longingly at the menu unsure about what to get. So the only reasonable thing that came to my mind was the trio meat over rice (why not try as much as I can right?)
I don’t fully remember the moments from the food being handed to me to me pulling into my driveway. All I knew is that my car was filled with the most incredible aroma. As soon as I entered the door it was as if I kicked my shoes off and grabbed a fork in one singular motion. I sat in silence at my dining room table and opened the container releasing whatever steam remained.
Each one of the meats were lined up perfectly across the orange rice. Chicken shawarma, gyro, and tandoori chicken all looking back at me begging to be the first bite. I’ll be honest, I don’t remember which I chose and it doesn’t matter, each one was amazing. Spices and flavors that I was unfamiliar with covered my taste buds and I couldn’t stop myself from going in for another bite. Every second I kept getting hit with another component, the freshness of the cilantro, the savoriness of the meat, the tang of the white sauce, the welcomed warmth of the curry. I literally had to walk away to prevent myself from devouring the whole (very good sized) container.
This meal was my favorite of 2021 for many reasons. First and most obvious, it was absolutely delicious and I can't wait to go back! But what got me, even more, was the story you could see behind every dish being served there. Buffalo is built on places like Alibaba Kebab, hard-working people showcasing where they are from, introducing us to the wonderful flavors of their home and passing that pride down through generations. I look back on this story and find it funny how simply sitting next to a talkative 8-year-old on a flight resulted in the best meal I ate in 2021. I guess word of mouth truly is the best form of advertising!
Mike's Previous Favorite Meals: 2020
Seamus Gallivan (Co-founder of Slow Roll Buffalo): Always enjoy everyone’s reflections here, cravings commence quickly - reading Buffalo Eats’ Year End list is like going to the grocery store, better not go in hungry…
…returning first as in past years to a home-cooked meal, seems fitting in these times that had me making nearly all of my meals at home during peak shutdown. After more meals over the past two years with my parents plus produce from Oles Farm, my favorite was a whole in Erbe Verde Farm chicken, spiced just right and slow-cooked in a crockpot with carrots, potatoes, onions and garlic. All picked up at Mass Ave Project. Grateful to Oles farm and fam for being a growing part of my diet in more ways than one - such a fulfilling feeling, quintessential comfort food, to feed my parents with the fruits of the labor of kids I grew up with now keeping their family farm growing beyond the passing of their beloved patriarch.
For a Buffalo restaurant favorite meal I first go back to my birthday - last request style with fried chicken, mac n cheese, greens and yams from Brothers, now downtown and doing it right.
Beyond Buffalo shout out to El Sid Taqueria in Vero Beach, Florida, in the heart of citrus heaven and right on the ocean and run by century-old Countryside Farm with family ties to Central America. Had mahi and the Korean BBQ special washed down with orange ice cream, a local specialty that’s simply vanilla custard splashed with orange juice - seriously heavenly, I feel like this should be a bigger deal, perhaps a local churner could work it up…
…welp, closing this year-in-review with a food-related resolution, y’all hold me to it!
Seamus Previous Favorite Meals: 2013, 2014, 2016, 2018, 2019
Matt Gunther (Chef/Owner of Bidwell): One of my favorite meals this year was lunch at Ditondo. I’d read about the history of the restaurant and the recent reopening on Buffalo Rising and I couldn’t believe it when I saw that a former colleague of mine, Fabio, was the chef in the kitchen. Fabio and I were line cooks together at Gramercy Tavern years ago and I was eager to reconnect and try his food. The space is beautiful and nods back to the building’s history while feeling modern, and Fabio’s food is the kind of simple, straightforward Italian fare that I could enjoy every day. His mushroom tagliatelle was satisfying with deeply roasted mushrooms and a sauce of mascarpone, lemon, parsley and parmesan. The bechamel sauce in the lasagna bolognese had just the right amount of nutmeg and perfect crispy edges. Who doesn’t like a crispy lasagna edge? I can’t wait to go back when they eventually open for dinner service.
The other significant meal this year was one that my wife Courtney and I shared a couple weeks ago in the dining room of our soon-to-open restaurant, Bidwell. We’ve hit some delays along the way, but recently had our tables and countertops installed. Sitting inside our restaurant’s dining room, at one of our new tables, was a surreal experience. To think that we’ll be open soon and serving our friends and neighbors was pretty amazing. I don’t even remember what we ate - probably Thanksgiving leftovers!
Matt's Previous Favorite Meal: 2020
Mike Dimmer (Chef/Owner of Marble + Rye): This past year, the best meal I had was at my good friend’s wedding at West Rose. I’m ashamed to say that it’s the first and only time I’ve eaten there, but that will change with time. I think that considering the fact that it was a meal for a wedding and I am still THIS floored by it says so much, too. It just further proves that their love and attention to what they do never skips a beat.
I gorged myself at the wedding…… embarrassingly so. I couldn’t dance, barely moved for a couple of hours, and I drank a bunch of beer which basically meant I was a balloon person for a while. That all passed around 10pm and I ate a bunch of insane desserts. Memory is fuzzy due to close friends getting married, a rare weekend away with my wife and an open bar, but a big spread of starters; olives, awesome focaccia crisps, house butter + jam, cheese, meats (soopersaad aka sopressata). Followed with Bavette, Halibut, a bunch of their wildly delicious pizzas….. the cauliflower with tahini with pickled chili is what got me, though. I’m a sucker for a set like that. Probably didn’t help with my balloon stomach, but it was worth it.
It was all incredible, but I remember all of the vegetable dishes being the stars. They had a beautiful delicata squash salad with cashew and dates and radicchio, as well as wild rice with summer squash and labneh, one of my favorite ingredients of all time. I also got to hang with Anthony and Mark (missed you Dusty), which is increasingly more rare in our industry. All in all, best meal and weekend of 2021.
Mike's Previous Favorite Meals: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
Griffin Schultz (Owner of Yummo Ice Cream): Even though 2020 was a new record low year for personal dining out, 2021 may prevail overall as the nadir of my self-endowed indulgence. This year was dedicated to many purchases/investments in taking my small, small biz to the “next level,” so while focusing on attempting to turn a profit and keep personal expenditures to a minimum in 2021 (not to mention often working too late to be seated anywhere with usual hours), I found myself supping in the public sphere hardly at all.
Buffalo, NY: Unpopular opinion, but I’ve always found lunch a mere tease of the sit down dinner I hope to regal in at the end of my day. I don’t really care for lunch or crave it at all, a midday snack for sure, but lunch will rarely ever pass my lips.
Perchance, DiTondo may be the exception. Newly renovated & reopened (the original DiTondo Tavern’s location) at 370 Seneca Street, the ethereal space invites modern comfort with an open-concept that bears a great depth of natural light throughout its glossy wooden/exposed brick interior. DiTondo serves up plenty of daily specials in addition to their regular menu Mondays-Fridays from 11:30-2:30. Having dined there for LUNCH on numerous occasions now, I would recommend ordering a few items from both menus (bring a dining partner so you can taste it all). While it isn’t full service at this time, the staff as a whole couldn’t be more gracious & eager to accommodate (so DO tip accordingly).
Don’t go here expecting a deli style “sammich” or “spaghetti parm.” Instead try the octopus salad (when it's available) akin to that of such enjoyed along the balmy Scopello coast, springy focaccia with ever changing accompaniments (the potato version flew me “to the stars” & the n’djua was thoroughly enjoyed upon another visit) & ALWAYS order the special *fresh* pasta. Bitter flavors sing with purpose across (Milan native) Fabio Consonni’s menu and receive flattering treatment from acid & sea salt. The lasagna with bolognese is delicately spiced and wears an iconic char as its crown. Every bite is a textural dream. Cheese goes beyond the realm of just “parm” or “mozzarella” here and is used to enhance the menu as a whole without dominating the landscape of every plate. Arancini, agnolotti & spezzatino are all freakin’ bangers in their own right at DiTondo - nothing here is amiss!
Three choices for wine (the house red is perfectly enjoyable) takes the guess-work out for self conscious imbibers & keeps the trust in house-sommelier/owner Rita DiTondo. The Amaro selection is brief, but not without thoughtful attention as well. And boy, does that tiramisu…SLAP! Get the tiramisu. Get it everytime. Get it to go if you have to. I want to sleep in it.
I am now a proud convert to the love of lunch. Not only has DiTondo retrogressed my aversion, but it has consistently defied the law of diminishing returns in a quixotic atmosphere. DiTondo is a reflection of a lifetime spent across the diverse regions of Italy & a safe haven in WNY for credible Italian culture among a sea of sordid, erred Italian-American comfort food joints. I look forward to eating my favorite meal (dinner) here someday soon.
Charleston, SC: While Lewis’ brisket made me swoon, Leon’s blessed my soul with fried catfish sammies & frozen G&T’s, Melfi’s introduced me to my new favorite dirty martini, Caesar salad AND thin crust pizza….I do believe that my favorite dining experience of 2021 was at Chubby Fish (please know this was a very close call overall - the Charleston food scene is on a different plane with a whole other set of geographically available ingredients). There is a melancholy that lingers after finishing what you know is now your new favorite film, and that was how I would best describe my experience at this uber fun spot with a mastery of seafood.
Chubby Fish is a no-reservation, chalkboard menu, full service establishment (serving primarily beer & wine) tucked amidst rows of Colonials & Georgians off the track from bustling King Street. To remove the Spanish moss & salty air, one might think they were dining in a LES haunt. Chubby Fish is serious about their sourcing, but induces an environment for its customers that doesn’t take itself too seriously, carrying the distinction of a Matter House eatery in the feel of a “fish bowl.” I have found myself being drawn to the likes of dim lit, teeny places like this with big windows & total transparency where you feel the warmth of the kitchen’s fire, the staff’s enigmatic energy & can even dabble in light conversation with elbowing tables. The ubiquitous Southern charm takes it to a place you would think one can only enjoy on vacation. Gone are the days of stuffy dining & overly serious staff, at least on my dime. Chubby Fish is about the food & wine first, but everyone working here has a wealth of knowledge on the local ecosystem of food & fisheries, together focused on ensuring a relaxed, yet elevated experience. This is a locals’ locale, and they know what a privilege it is to share in the offerings of the neighboring Atlantic which really get to shine at Chubby.
December was an unintentionally wise time to go to Charleston with it being prime oyster harvest there & with it being below 30 here. The kitchen moves quickly, so you are suggested to order two to three items at a time. Starting with a dozen Carolina oysters (Port Royals, Norumbegas, Row 34’s) served with a smokey, gelatinous tosazu & an Amberjack crudo (the most delectable few bites of my meal) was a lovely introduction to the feast that would follow. A bottle of Fritz Müller Pinot Noir Rosé accompanied the meal in a most complimentary fashion, tasting of pure Christmas with its light bubbles & balanced cranberry composition. Bone marrow with tempura shrimp & sourdough (that could have been a course of its own) followed suit. Triggerfish was a new delight to be had, melting like snowy foie in every bite. The chili garlic shrimp was a seemingly simple set that somehow impressed beyond comprehension in the moment of eating. Upon further reflection, I guess it was by means of just a few well treated ingredients and careful attention to cuts & texture that subtlety was maintained as if it were an old chef’s secret in this unforgettable dish. Isn’t that the goal of every dish at inception? For dessert, a whole B-liner snapper dressed in ginger scallion sauce took over the table, and despite an ambitious order on my part, did not stay there long for but a few bones and scales. Wowza!
It’s easy to say “fresh seafood” and to serve that in an inventive, truly delicious manner is a whole other achievement on its own. Relying little on the deep fryer & honing in on highlighting the beauty of the natural essence of each item’s freshly fished, main ingredients is what Chubby Fish does properly.
“WELL DONE” to the whole team at Chubby Fish. It feels precious to leave a meal simultaneously smiling & sad that it’s all over.
Paige Gress (Owner of Nine Eleven Tavern): From one small business owner to another, we try to support local as much as possible throughout this pandemic. We kept trying to find incredible Thai food anywhere in Buffalo. We heard about Rin Thai from a friend and WOW. It's incredible. I went basic and ordered their Pad Thai, Crab Rangoons, Spring Rolls, and of course some dumplings. It was everything I wanted out of Thai food.
The service was amazing as well. Everyone was so kind even on a day when things were extra tough for them. They were originally located on Elmwood Ave, but were forced to change locations (measures out of their control) and it happened to be their last day when I picked up our order. I'm happy to see they have reopened on Main Street and cannot recommend this restaurant enough!
Mike Andrzejewski (Former Chef/Owner of SeaBar, Cantina Loco): Wow, Its the end of another year, 2021 was supposed to be a big comeback from the misery that was 2020, and while it certainly wasn't as devastating, it was a long way from phenomenal for most of us associated with the restaurant industry. Since travel was still somewhat limited for a host of obvious reasons, dining out was a little more reserved for us this year. That being said, I certainly didnt starve, as my trouser size is proof.
So after a week of searching my waning memory, ( yes it's true what they say about getting old), I have narrowed my most memorable dining experience down to a pretty simple dinner Sherri and I cooked at home on a day off from the restaurant.
We live on a fairly well traveled island, and although it is difficult to find super luxury foodstuffs, I have the opportunity to get some pretty incredible things at the source, seafood being on top of the list! So being in a pretty energetic mood early in the day, I picked up some Vegetables at a farm stand, mainly summer staples, like zucchini , yellow squash, cucumbers and a few really nice ripe tomatoes. Next I trekked out to the back bay area that is home to a few small fishing fleets and the retail stores the boat owners operate to sell to the public. I passed on the usual shrimp and crabs and picked out a gorgeous, fresh red snapper, so fresh that rigor hadn't wained from its body, and exposed the gills, as clear and bright red as I've ever seen.
We generally have some pretty good cheeses and snacks in the fridge, so we had a built-in first course as we both worked on dinner. Sherri is a pretty talented baker and and had started a pastry crust the previous day, and put together a beautiful berry pie that was driving me crazy as it cooled while I was prepping the snapper and veggies. My original thought was to roast the fish whole, stuffing the cavity with the usual suspects, herbs and citrus, over a live charcoal fire , but the wind and the work involved made me reconsider my options. While thinking ahead to cleaning up after all the fun was over, I figured I would roast the now butterflied fish in parchment so it would be easier to do away with the usual mess Im generally responsible for when I cook at home. After thoroughly removing any remaining bones, ( I have gotten really proficient at it over the years), I tossed together some garlic buttered panko, melted way to much butter and doused the fish with it layered the crumbs and tossed on a handful of dill and chives, squeezed on the obligatory fresh lemon and slid it into the oven along with a sheetpan of the squashes that I coated in good olive oil and sea salt. While waiting for the fish Sherri took over the salad, simply rough cutting the tomatoes and tossing them with a light vinaigrette, slivered fresh basil and some ricotta.
We put everything on our little dining table, pretty much filling it up with our local bounty and enjoyed what turned out to be a truly wonderful meal.
I ended up polishing off a good portion of the pie with a bit of sweet cream , and had no trouble sleeping that night. We let the dishes wait till morning...
Mike's Previous Favorite Meals: 2012, 2013, 2014, 2017
Nick Guy & Lizz Schumer (NYC Based Writers): We came back to Buffalo from NYC from August 2020 through June 2021. Through the end of 2020, we mostly avoided indoor dining, only making exceptions for Waxlight and Marble & Rye, two of our absolute go-tos run by people we know and trust to keep things as safe as possible. (It’s also up to everyone to keep things safe! Go get vaxxed! Go get boosted! Wear your gosh dang mask!) Of course, the meals were excellent, as always.
Going into spring 2021, once we were able to get vaxxed and feel a bit more comfortable with things, we opened up quite a bit more (the fish fry from Frank was an early spring, still-indoors highlight). Marble & Rye was the first place we went post jab, almost as a reset. It’s been one of our favorites since literally its first day, and although the menu has changed quite a bit since then, it still hits on every cylinder. The Detroit-style pizzas (quickly becoming our favorite style) are as rich and buttery as you could possibly hope, with perfectly latticed crispy edges and dough that’s to die for. The current iteration of the spicy cucumbers is the best yet, and of course, Meg’s cocktails are some of the most thoughtful, complex in the city. While we’ll always mourn, at least a little bit, what M&R used to be, we also love what it’s become.
One of our new favorite indulgences also grew out of the pandemic-induced ingenuity: Living the Cream. It may feel a little sketchy to pick up pints of ice cream out of a cooler in a Home Depot parking lot, but the rich, creamy, decadent homemade ice cream quickly overcame any weirdness. We loved every flavor we tried, but we’re still dreaming of a particular Easter special that had swirls of marshmallow, Cadbury eggs, and Reeses peanut butter eggs, indisputably the best shape of Reeses.
Also, Macy’s Place. While their off-the-wall pies are amazing (come on, who doesn’t love a pizza that comes topped with chicken fingers, fries, pickles, and pizza rolls?) even their basic cheese and pep is one of our favorites in Buffalo. And yes, the Dorito-dusted wings are a must-try, but the basic hot are also crispy, perfectly sauced and the size a chicken wing should be. Did Nick push a few traffic laws to get Macy’s takeout home while the fries on our pie were still crispy? Yes. Was it worth it? Also definitely yes.
I (Nick) went down to Nashville for the Monday Night Bills game (☹) like the rest of Buffalo and its expats, and had to go for brunch at Isreali-Southern fusion restaurant Butcher & Bee. Lizz and I went a few years back and the avocado crispy rice had been on my mind since—still is, even after my second go. It’s intensely seasoned, and the smooth avocado against the crunch of the crispy rice is just a beautiful pairing. I added shawarma chicken and an egg, and regret absolutely nothing.